segunda-feira, 3 de junho de 2013

This Is Not Your City By CAITLIN HORROCKS, an excerpt



This Is Not Your City

By CAITLIN HORROCKS
 
An Excerpt
Zolaria
It is July and we are a miraculous age. We have been sprung from our backyards, from the neighborhood park, from the invisible borders that rationed all our other summers. We are old enough to have earned a larger country, and young enough to make it larger still. The woods between Miller and Arborview become haunted. Basilisks patrol the Dairy Queen. We are so beset by dangers we make ourselves rulers over them, and by July we are the princesses of an undiscovered kingdom. We make maps with colored pencils. Here be Dragons, I write across the square of Wellington Park, at the end of our street. Here be Brothers, Hanna writes across her own backyard, and we avoid them both. We are too old for these games, too big for this much imagination, but we are so unpopular that summer that there is no one to care. We have finished the fifth grade alive and we consider that an accomplishment. We have earned this summer.
The neighborhood has been emptying of children. There are bigger houses being built past Wagner, past the edge of the western edge of town. The houses here, one story, one bathroom, have become a place to live after children or a place to move away from when they come. This year Hanna-Khoury-eight-houses-down and I are best friends, a thing I haven't had before and won't have again until I'm married, both of us twenty-four, an age my family will say is too young and I will be proud years later of proving them wrong.
That summer we pick blackberries in the Miller woods and take them to Hanna's house where her mother rinses them in a plastic colander. Hanna's parents still live together and their house feels friendlier than mine. When Mr. Khoury visited our fifth-grade class our teacher introduced him as a man there to talk about his "troubled homeland." He was a man from somewhere else, a troubled country people left and then called home, a country defined only by its perpetual unhappiness. Mr. Khoury told us that we were lucky, lucky boys and lucky girls, lucky American children, and Hanna rolled her eyes, embarrassed. Mr. Khoury has a Lebanese flag on the wall of his study and I think it must be a kinder sort of country that puts a tree on its flag. This is one of many things I do not understand that summer.
The gas station at the corner of Miller and Maple closes and there is a sign in the windows announcing upcoming construction, Project Managers Ogan/Veen. We don't know that the construction will never happen, that nothing will ever be built there, because the gasoline has leached into the earth 100, 200, 300 feet down, some impossible depth that no one will own up to and that can't be cleaned. That summer we ride our bikes around and around the empty gas station and look in all the windows. Hanna says Ogan/Veen looks like the name of a monster, and from then on he haunts our summer in a friendly sort of way, a goblin who lives in an empty Shell station and wanders the neighborhood at sundown. If we are lucky, he will encounter only the children who have spent the past year tormenting us, and he will grind their bones for bread.
"Ogan Veen, Ogan Veen, His farts all smell like gasoline, His stomach's full of children's spleens,
Ogan Veen, Ogan Veen," we sing. There are other verses but this one's my favorite because I've come up with "spleen" all by myself. Hanna doesn't know what it means and I'm not so clear either, but it rhymes and my mother's said it's a part of someone that can be eaten.
"If you're a cannibal, I guess," she said, and I said perfect.
On one of my dad's weekends, I ask him to take us to Dolph Park, too far to bike to. The hiking path circles two lakes, Little Sister Lake and Big Sister Lake, and since I am an only child and Hanna has two brothers, we decide to split the lakes between us. We fight over who gets which. We are the same age and nearly the same size, although Hanna's arms and legs are gangly and seem destined for great height. In seventh grade, the year Hanna will slip a note between the vents of my locker that reads "I Hate You" over and over, filling an entire notebook page, I will be 5'2" and as tall as I will ever grow. My father is 6'1" and will call me "Midget." When I briefly register with an online dating site after college I will call myself "petite." Hanna will never grow tall, either, and because we can't know these things, we ask my father to flip a coin over Big Sister Lake. I can see him peek and scuttle the coin when I call heads, a move too quick for Hanna to notice. She cedes the lake to me, accepts the smaller for her kingdom, and I try to tell my father that night over carryout Chinese what I am only beginning to understand myself, that the way in which he loves me is not quite the way I wish he would.
In fifth grade Hanna and I doomed ourselves. On the second day of school we took out our folders, our pencil cases, organized our desks, and Hanna had space dolphins and I had pink unicorns. Two years ago all the girls had school supplies like this, and I don't understand why they have abandoned the things they loved. Hanna and I were startled but not stupid, and if no one had noticed us that day we would both have begged our mothers to take us to K-Mart that night and exchange them. But it was too late. We were the girls with the wrong school supplies, and everything we did after that, even the things that were just like everyone else, were the wrong things to do. I will never tell Hanna that space dolphins aren't really as bad as pink unicorns, and that she wasn't really doomed until I made her my friend.
The Little and Big Sister Lakes are the eastern edge of what we name Zolaria that summer, simply for the sound of it, the exotic "Z" and the trailing vowels like a movie star's name. The northwestern border is the Barton Dam. It takes us most of the summer to get there, sneaking closer and closer, up Newport Road and through the grounds of what will be our junior high school. One day there is a door propped open by the tennis courts and we decide to explore. There is a sticker beside the door: No Shirt, No Shoes, No Service. I am barefoot and we are so timid this sticker foils our plan until Hanna takes off her left shoe and gives it to me. Now we are within the law, and follow a chlorine smell as far as the locker rooms, the labyrinth of showers, the locked door to the pool. We hear footsteps and run, directionless, past the library, the main office, the Cafetorium, past the music room where I'll play flute for three shrill years. Hanna will have quit band by then; Hanna has only so much energy, her mother will tell mine on the phone, and doesn't want to waste it on the trombone. We run past the glass trophy cases in the foyer and finally we find the open door, the patch of blue sky and red and green tennis courts. In the homestretch Hanna's shoe flies off my foot and she yells, "Forget it! Don't stop!" but I go back and we make it out anyway.
The next day we bike through the junior high parking lot and across the freeway overpass just north, where we yank our arms up and down until three trucks have honked their horns. We take our bikes into the nature preserve and ride them until the hills get so steep they rattle our teeth. We ride bikes like girls, throw like girls, we know it, and there is no one around that summer to make us ashamed. We walk our bikes through the forest, the sound of the freeway to our right and a creek to our left, a symmetrical hum. Eventually there is a fence and a gate and a dirt road that leads to the Barton Dam. We ride to the huge gray wall of it, the rush of water at the base, the scum scudding across the surface of the river like soap suds. There is a dead animal floating at the base of the dam, bloated and spongy and colorless. Its fur is breaking off in hanks, drifting in the patches of foam. It is a cloudy day and we are alone on the river path. A man comes out of the pump station at the top of the dam and walks out along the wall. He leans against the safety railing and shades his eyes with a hand and looks down at us. We know we are in the borderlands, where our kingdom meets a stranger's, where Ogan Veen wanders in daylight, and where we should not linger.
Thirteen years later, Cal and I will announce our engagement on Christmas morning over crumpled wrapping paper and freshly-squeezed orange juice. It will be the coldest morning of any year of my life so far, the paper's lead headline the temperature, 26 below, but as we unwrap presents we will see one of the Khoury boys outside walking their dog. My mother will call me into the kitchen to tell me I am young. "You're young," she'll say. "You're still so young."
"Not that young," I will tell her.
"Yes, that young. You barely know each other."
"I know him."
"You don't know yourself," she'll say. "That's what I worry about. How can you get married when you don't know yourself yet?"
"I know myself plenty," I'll say. "I think I know all I want to."
One night in July, Hanna and I have a sleepover and dream almost the same dream, in which Ogan Veen is chasing us, gnashing his long, stinking teeth. Zolaria is not his to haunt, so we build traps in the woods, stretch fishing line between trees, scatter tacks in the dirt and make piles of throwing-rocks in places with good cover. In my backyard is a half-dug decorative fishpond, a project my father started and abandoned, and we lattice the top with long sticks, camouflage it with leaves and cut grass. Every day I wait for Hanna to come up the street so we can check it together. I do not want to face our quarry alone. We bow branches, harp them with yarn, notch twigs and practice our archery. We strip the leaves from long tendrils of weeping willow and crack the whips in the air. We run shouting through the woods brandishing foam swords from a Nerf fencing set. We are girded for battle, but the enemy will not show himself. We catch nothing, but we have made ourselves afraid. It seems unfair, that a kingdom we invented should have its own mysteries, its unvanquishable foes. By September, we are almost eager for school to begin. We are tired of checking a dry fishpond for ogres every morning. But as princesses of Zolaria, we cannot say such a thing out loud. We have certain duties to our kingdom, to our adoring subjects. We must give the appearance of keeping them safe.
My father will take me once more to Dolph Park, when I am in high school, for old times' sake. The lakes are in the middle of an algae bloom, the weather hot and the water full of nitrogen and phosphorus. I will explain this to my father, nitrogen, phosphorus, when he grimaces at the damp mat of green over the pond, looking solid enough to walk on. My high school will have implemented an experimental science curriculum the year I enter tenth grade and I will know a great deal about eutrophication and very little about anything else. We will pretend to skip rocks but will really just be throwing things, stones and sticks and clods of dirt, watching them break apart the algae and sink out of sight. We will throw until our arms are tired and I will talk about the environmental benchmarks of healthy aquatic environments. We will get milkshakes at the Dairy Queen on Stadium Boulevard and two weeks later my father will move to San Diego.
In sixth grade Hanna and I will still be in the same Girl Scout troop. We will sing Christmas carols for the old people at Hillside Terrace nursing home, and in the spring we will sell cookies. I will sell enough to earn a stuffed giraffe, while Hanna sells only enough for a patch to be sewn on her vest. She will already be sick and I will have no idea. She will miss the whole last month of sixth grade, and four Girl Scout meetings, but it will be summer before my mother takes me to visit her. The hospital will remind me of a shopping mall, places to buy medicine and gifts and food, departments for having babies and looking after babies and looking after children and fixing all the different things that can go wrong with them. It is a weighty place but exciting, the way my mother asks the front desk for Pediatric Oncology and I press the button in the elevator.
Hanna's mother and mine will go for coffee, leaving us alone. Hanna will be wearing a violet-colored bandanna. She will say she is a gangster, and I say she would make the worst gangster in the world, which is true. She says a highwayman, then, which feels a little closer, and when I suggest pirate, we're off. We go once more to Zolaria, the bed rails marking the deck of our ship, and Hanna says climb on, that I won't hurt her, and our kingdom acquires an ocean, high seas. Aweigh anchor, we say, trim the sails, cast off, fore-and-aft, and we are all right for a time. We will be eleven, almost twelve; we will keep looking at the door, hoping no one comes in and sees us. After half an hour Hanna will throw up twice in a plastic tub beside the bed. She will say she leaned over to take a sounding, that the sea is a thousand fathoms deep where we are, that if we don't make it back to port we'll drown for sure. I will ask her if she wants some water. She won't say anything, but I'll fill a plastic cup from the jug on the nightstand.
"I had a dream the other night that Ogan Veen was back," I will say. "It was in the woods and he was chasing us and when we went out the fence we were saying, 'I don't hear him, I think we made it,' but then he was right there in front of us smiling and then I woke up." Hanna will look at me and her eyes will be dark and flat and I will know it was a terrible idea, to tell her this dream. She will sip her water and I will watch her sip it and we will wait for our mothers to come back and when they do we will be glad.
I will be unprepared for how long this sickness takes, for how long Hanna will be neither cured nor desperate. I will visit her once more at the hospital, twice more while she's at home. I will realize I am waiting for her to be either well or dead. She will feel very far away. I will start junior high alone, and when Hanna comes for her first day, in late November, I will be startled to see her. Our morning classes must all be different because I recognize her for the first time at lunch, sitting by herself. I will already be sitting in the middle of a long table by the time I see her, my lunch unpacked in front of me. I will be pressed tight on either side by people who, if asked, would probably say I am their friend. Hanna will be wearing an awful wig, stiff and styled like an old woman's perm. The hair will be dark brown, not black, and will no longer match her eyes. She will be pale and her face swollen and she will not seem like someone I can afford to know.
* * *
The summer we are ten we sketch maps of our kingdom and outline its Constitution, its Declaration of Independence, its City Charter. In the end they all become zoological surveys. The Haisley woods harbor griffins, borometz, simurghs. There are dragons on Linwood Street, basilisks on Duncan who turn children to stone. We understand that we have no sway over basilisks and dragons; we understand that they are the minions of Ogan Veen. He has servants now, he has armies, and despite all our efforts Zolaria is not as safe as it was.
We make other lists, too, of "People Who, In Zolaria, Would Be Imprisoned In The Dungeon FOREVER." Hanna keeps adding her brothers' names to the list and then erasing them until the paper is ready to tear and I tell her to leave them off, if she's going to feel so guilty about it. We make a list of "Animals That Can Be Ridden: Pegasus, Centaur, Griffins, and Space Dolphins." We decide this is too charitable, and amend it to "Animals That Can Be Ridden By Us." We decide to hire young men to look after our stable of space dolphins, and when we deem ourselves a little older, and ready for love, we will notice the groomsmen and swoon. We prepare speeches of protest, in which we declare our unwillingness to marry foreign princes, our determination to follow our hearts, until we are disappointed to remember that in our kingdom we have no parents, and may marry whomever we choose.
(Continues...)
Excerpted from THIS IS NOT YOUR CITY by Caitlin Horrocks. Copyright © 2011 by Caitlin Horrocks. Excerpted by permission of Sarabande Books. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher. Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.

Stories of the Unkindness of Strangers By ROBIN ROMM



Stories of the Unkindness of Strangers

By ROBIN ROMM

Caitlin Horrocks


THIS IS NOT YOUR CITY
Stories
By Caitlin Horrocks
Illustrated. 169 pp. Sarabande Books. Paper, $15.95.

In “At the Zoo,” one of the stories in Caitlin Horrocks’s impressively sharp first book, a little boy recalls his grandfather’s interpretation of mouse thoughts: “I’m small! I’m frightened! Oh no! An owl!” The boy thinks, “I’m sorry you’re small and frightened; we are the same.” But quickly, his mind shifts. “Not the same. I am much bigger than you. I could hurt you.” Still in day care, he’s already exhibiting this most Horrocksian trait, “excitement at the capacity for harm.”
Though diverse in style and point of view — one story takes place on a ship hijacked by Somali pirates, another features a woman on her 127th incarnation — Horrocks’s stories share one consuming fixation. We live in a world studded with cruelty. Humans inflict it; the world inflicts it. How do we live with this bewildering truth?
Horrocks is more interested in perpetrators than she is in victims. In one story, girls just out of fifth grade form an unbreakable summer bond, entrenched in a world of their own invention. But when illness strikes one, the other cannot “afford to know” her anymore and so joins her classmates as they toss the girl’s wig around. Long after the friend dies, the scene lives on in the other girl’s mind, a devastating and terrifying first lesson in injustice.
In “Zero Conditional,” a third-grade portable classroom serves as the sinister new workplace for an adrift, off-kilter woman named Eril. The previous teacher, “quite the biologist,” has left several projects in the room, including bowls of gray “owl vomit filled with the fur and bones of whatever the owl had eaten.” Shrew skeletons, pieced back together, now lie “caked in Elmer’s glue, slivers of rib bones shellacked onto skulls.” A live rat, too, sits among the ruins. The class pet, he bears an ever-­growing tumor.
Unqualified to teach, Eril begins with the only thing she can think of, a lesson on the zero conditional. “If students misbehave, they are punished,” she writes on the board. The sentence foreshadows her darkening impulses. In a deliciously harrowing scene, Eril forces the most literal and observant student — who bothers her precisely because of those qualities — to run his finger over the rat’s tumor even as he quivers with resistance.
Illness, cruelty, rats: I fear I’m making Horrocks sound grim. But she deploys love and humor as convincingly as dread. In “World Champion Cow of the Insane,” a recent college graduate is hired part time to teach basic Internet use at a Michigan community center. There she watches as a spunky elderly student pecks out an obscenity-­laced note to his son: “Y-o-u ­a-r-e a . . . i-g-n-o-r-a-m-u-s.”
“Just so you know,” she tells him, “I don’t think a subject line that long will show up in his in-box.” Gamely, the student changes it to “Ignoramus = YOU.”
Horrocks’s motley crew of characters have this in common: They don’t find easy anodynes. Lyssa, the wife of a slaughterhouse worker and part-time dog­napper in “Steal Small,” one of the collection’s highlights, tries not to dwell on hardship. But when her husband gets his hands on a beautiful Dalmatian, Lyssa finds herself at a crossroad. Though she doesn’t ordinarily protest his questionable ways (he plans to sell the dogs to pharmaceutical research labs), the Dalmatian plagues her. Her relationship with the idea of rescue is thorny, though, and she fails to free the dog. Instead, like many of the characters in Horrocks’s appealingly rugged-hearted collection, she forges a messier path to solace. h
Robin Romm is the author of a story collection, “The Mother Garden,” and a memoir, “The Mercy Papers.”

Why Writers Belong Behind Bars By TONY PERROTTET



Why Writers Belong Behind Bars

By TONY PERROTTET

While researching the Marquis de Sade several years ago, I came across an intriguing biographical tidbit: that crazed French libertine, whose string of luridly violent works gave rise to the term “sadism,” actually began his literary career as a travel writer. In 1775, Sade embarked on a yearlong grand tour of Italy, and wrote an enormous (and enormously tedious) manuscript about the journey entitled “Voyage d’Italie.” The rambling opus, filled with ruminations on Florentine museums and Neapolitan customs, was never completed. Sade’s attention wandered to more carnal pleasures, and in 1777, he was arrested for a long list of unsavory imbroglios, including one that historians call the Little Girls Episode. Sade was thrown into the prison of Vincennes, and would spend most of his remaining life incarcerated. “Voyage d’Italie” soon joined a range of half-finished manuscripts from his youth, scraps of verse and staid dramatic pieces, none of which Sade ever had the discipline to bring to fruition.
From a strictly literary point of view, prison was the best thing that ever happened to the marquis. It was only behind bars that Sade was able to knuckle down and compose the imaginative works upon which his enduring, if peculiar, reputation lies.
Sade’s most impressive stint began after 1784, when he was transferred to the Bastille, which effectively operated as a literary colony on a par with Yaddo today. From a suite decorated with his own furniture and 600-book library (and tended by his valet), the marquis entered a mind-boggling frenzy of writing, cranking out thousands of manuscript pages at breakneck speed. As Francine du Plessix Gray describes in her classic biography “At Home With the Marquis de Sade,” he completed the first draft of his pornographic novel “Justine” in a single two-week-long burst, and knocked out the final 250,000-word draft of “The 120 Days of Sodom” in 37 days, transcribing minuscule letters on five-inch-wide pages glued into a roll nearly 50 feet long. By 1788, after only 11 years behind bars, Sade had churned out 8 novels and story collections, 16 historical novellas, 2 volumes of essays, a diary and some 20 plays. Whatever you make of Sade’s oeuvre, you have to envy his productivity.
Literary distraction seems a very modern problem. These days, distracted writers tend to blame the Internet, whose constant temptations shred our attention spans, fragment every minute and reduce us to a permanent state of anxiety, checking e-mail every 30 seconds — “like masturbating monkeys,” a writer friend once put it, a phrase of which Sade himself might have approved. But history is filled with writers who, like the marquis, could function only in extreme — and involuntary — isolation.
“A prison is indeed one of the best workshops,” Colette declared. She wasn’t speaking metaphorically. In the early 1900s, by her own account, her caddish first husband had stashed her in a tiny room for four hours a day, refusing to let her out until she had finished a requisite number of pages — a drastic measure, but one that resulted in a novel a year for six years. “What I chiefly learned was how to enjoy, between four walls, almost every secret flight,” she later recalled, sounding almost sentimental.
The peripatetic Marco Polo got around to recording his classic travels through China only because he was captured in 1298 during a naval battle with Genoa and held in a lavish palazzo. Five hundred years later, the playboy Giacomo Casanova found time for his renowned erotic autobiography only after he had run out of money (and libido) and retreated to Castle Dux in Bohemia, where he accepted a sinecure as a librarian. Napoleon Bonaparte dictated his multivolume memoir — one of the great best sellers of 19th-century France — thanks only to his long exile on St. Helena. Even the harsh public jails could induce results. In 1897, Oscar Wilde wrote the philosophical essay “De Profundis” while locked up in Reading Gaol on charges of “unnatural acts.” And in 1942, Jean Genet wrote his first novel, “Our Lady of the Flowers,” while in Fresnes prison, near Paris, for petty theft, scrawling on scraps of paper.
Of course, few writers seriously dream of a stay in a latter-day Bastille, though until recently it still seemed relatively easy to recreate a kind of makeshift solitary confinement. In 1992, in “The Writing Life,” Annie Dillard described pushing her desk away from the windows in her tool shed study on Cape Cod, which looked out on lovely pine forests, to face a blank wall. (“Appealing workplaces are to be avoided. One wants a room with no view, so imagination can meet memory in the dark.”) John Cheever preferred his New York apartment building’s dark and dismal basement, and the Algonquin Round Table wit Edna Ferber recommended facing the “blank brick wall of a cold-storage warehouse.”
Today, however, being chained to the desk, as the expression goes, is no longer a guarantee of productivity. Who can stick with the blank page when the click of a mouse opens up a cocktail party of chattering friends, a world-class library, an endless shopping mall, a game center, a music festival and even a multiplex? At once-remote literary colonies, writers can now be spotted wandering the fields with their smartphones, searching for reception so they can shoot off a quick Facebook update. These days, Walden Pond would have Wi-Fi, and Thoreau might spend his days watching cute wildlife videos on YouTube. And God knows what X-rated Web sites the Marquis de Sade would have unearthed.
It’s wonderful that writers can access medieval manuscripts, Swahili dictionaries and collections of 19th-­century daguerreotypes at any moment. But the downside is that it’s almost impossible to finish a sentence without interruption. I confess that even those last 15 words were stalled by a detour, via Wikipedia, to various health Web sites, where I learned that concern was aroused last year by a report that Wi-Fi radiation was causing trees to shed their bark in a Dutch town, and that our excessive Web browsing and e-mailing may also be having ill effects on bees and British children. After an hour of this, I concluded that perhaps an equally urgent scientific study might be conducted on the devastation Wi-Fi has caused to world literature. The damage is surely incalculable.
Although everyone I know acknowledges the problem of digital distraction, there is surprisingly little resistance. In New York literary circles, anyone who doesn’t have a Twitter account qualifies as a radical Luddite. But some have made gestures toward enforced self-denial. The novelist Jonathan Lethem has said he owns two computers, one of which he had Internet-disabled to use for his fiction writing. Dave Eggers, Nora Ephron and others have extolled the computer program Freedom, which cuts off your computer’s Internet access for up to eight hours. Jonathan Franzen wrote “The Corrections” in a dark room wearing earplugs, earmuffs and a blindfold, and confessed to blocking his Ethernet port with Super Glue while working on “Freedom” (not named, apparently, for the software program).
Of course, there are even simpler solutions. Another of France’s wildly prolific authors, Honoré de Balzac, felt that the most effective spur to productivity was abject poverty. As a best-selling writer in his early 30s, Balzac looked back fondly upon his younger days as a bohemian, living in a garret and gnawing on a diet of bread, nuts, fruit and water. (“I loved my prison,” he wrote, “for I had chosen it myself.”) Even when successful, he would wake at midnight, symbolically don the habit of a medieval monk, and write for eight hours straight, fueled by pots of coffee. His biographer Graham Robb suggests that Balzac went so far as to deliberately run up debts to force himself to churn out the pages. Given the dwindling amounts writers are paid these days, the fear of bankruptcy — the modern debtor’s prison — remains an inspiration to us all.
Tony Perrottet’s latest book is “The Sinner’s Grand Tour: A Journey Through the Historical Underbelly of Europe.”

http://www.nytimes.com/2011/07/24/books/review/why-writers-belong-in-prison.html?tntemail1=y&emc=tnt&pagewanted=print

Travels North of the Amazon By LIESL SCHILLINGER



Travels North of the Amazon

By LIESL SCHILLINGER


WILD COAST
Travels on South America’s Untamed Edge
By John Gimlette
Illustrated. 358 pp. Alfred A. Knopf. $28.95

Have you ever considered visiting the Guianas, that fabled South American realm of gold and sugar, home to, as the British travel writer John Gimlette reports,“head-crushing jaguars, strangling snakes, rivers of stingrays and electric eels,” not to mention giant otters, “half-puppy, half-torpedo,” that snack on piranhas? The region’s tangled green knot of jungle, rock and savannah — now home to the countries of Guyana, Suriname and French Guiana — crouches between Venezuela and Brazil, veined by thousands of turbulent rivers, mulchily recoiling from 900 miles of Atlantic coastline.
Sir Walter Ralegh set off a wave of European exploration of the territory in 1595 when he wrote in his prospectus “The Discoverie of the Large, Rich and Bewtiful Empyre of Guiana” that “there is no country which yieldeth more pleasure to the inhabitants.” Boasting, Gimlette tells us, of “diamond mountains, dog-headed mermen, weeklong drinking festivals and men with their eyes in their chests,” Ralegh also claimed the place sheltered a city of gold, El Dorado, a fiction that persists to this day.
But in the intervening centuries, the region’s reputation has suffered somewhat. In 1882, a visiting English yachtsman deemed it “a hopeless land of slime and fever, quite unfitted for man.” Evelyn Waugh, who passed through in 1933, denounced its society as “destructive and predatory” and leveled abuse at its “slatternly and ill-favored” women. He even deplored its taxidermy (“the worst stuffed animals I have seen anywhere”). A few decades later, both V. S. and Shiva Naipaul provided their own withering accounts.
Yet to the admirably (or alarmingly) fearless Gimlette, the Guianas remain a terrain of matchless allure, rippling with “mad, gaudy, toxic and exotic” life. In 2008, he spent several months burrowing into its rugged, bedeviled wilderness, digging for myth. Though he encountered neither a golden city nor dog-headed mermen, he saw sights so wondrous that, as he later told a BBC radio host, “if it was to be a novel it would be rejected as being improbable.” Luckily, Gimlette decided not to cast this account of his wanderings as fiction. Instead, he has written a spirited historical, political and personal travelogue guaranteed to arouse the adventurous reader’s wanderlust.
“Wild Coast” provides two valuable services. First, it offers a gorgeously vivid depiction of one of the last untamed places on the planet — “a beautiful world, luminously lush and drenchingly fecund” — and, second, it allows tourists seeking an easy-peasy exotic holiday to strike this destination from their itinerary. More hardened souls may, however, find themselves slavering to repeat Gimlette’s ordeals: to live among the Makushi forest people and sip their cassiri home-brew (made of fermented cassava, purple potatoes and human spit), which tastes of “whisky blended with cabbages and socks”; to visit the ruins of a plantation where slaves revolted against brutal owners in the 18th century and find shards of Delft china and “tufts” of smashed wine bottles still littering the grounds; to push through the “vicious vanguard of the forest,” with its “trees sprouting daggers and poison,” just to test their mettle.
Evidently, Gimlette wasn’t daunted by the challenges of his expedition. He marvels at the gauzy beauty of the colonial capital Georgetown, “built on canals and breezes, a city of stilts and clapboard, brilliant whites, fretwork, spindles and louvers.” He revels in the eccentricity of the local people, whether it’s the Scots-Carib- and Arawak-descended hunter Dango Allicock, who makes him a bow and arrows to take back to London (“Whenever you use them . . . you’ll think of us”) or the unnamed landlord in a lawless town who rents him a room with the assurance, “If I hear anyone, I’ll shoot them.” When Gimlette leaves what passes for civilization, he charges ecstatically into the rough, through the “gateway of a primordial world,” journeying with relish through “slicks of brilliant ooze, grass like green fire, liverish pools and succulent bogs rimmed with pink,” spotting “lilies so purple they looked like the work of an imperial hatter.” “Even the jabiru storks,” he notes, “seemed to belong to a long-lost age. They’d all stand around in their tatty coachman’s livery, stabbing at the frogs and then tossing them back like shots of gin.”
With the help of air travel, flatbed trucks and motorized canoes, today’s explorers have a decent chance of repeating Gimlette’s journey. So which of the region’s three countries would they like to visit first? How about Guyana, (formerly British Guiana), where the cult leader Jim Jones compelled more than 900 followers to drink a cyanide-laced fruit drink? Gimlette went to Jonestown, spoke with some survivors and found a sandal that belonged to one of the victims.
What about French Guiana, “the largest chunk of the European Union detached from the whole,” long home to an archipelago of penal colonies: Devil’s Island, Isle Royale and St. Joseph Island. Until 1946, the French sent thousands of criminals and undesirables there (most notably Alfred Dreyfus) to languish in the smothering heat. When Gimlette paid a visit, he packed a bottle of wine and a hammock and took a boat to Isle Royale, where he watched monkeys, agoutis and giant iguanas frisk amid the coconut palms before slinging his hammock in one of the defunct prison barracks. But he concedes that plenty of Frenchmen still call the place “l’enfer vert,” the “green hell.”
Then there’s Suriname, the former Dutch slave colony, now a popular Netherlandish tourist destination, which welcomes, by Gimlette’s estimation, 60,000 Dutch visitors a year. But my Texan cousin and his wife say, “No, no, no,” to Suriname. They lived there in 1999 and 2000, while serving in the Peace Corps. After leaving the capital, Paramaribo — “the perfect city,” Gimlette sighs, praising its plantations, its canals, its purple fortress “like a hat full of mansions” and even the alligator in the city pond — they jolted along a mud road for six hours, then hopped in a log canoe that bore them to a village of maroons (descendants of slaves who fled their Dutch overseers during bloody rebellions). The Texan cousin and his wife moved into a thatched hut infested with rats and giant spiders. They lasted six months, long after their project director had been medevacked back home with an “obscure jungle disease.” Yet even armed with this foreknowledge, after reading “Wild Coast,” I longed to fly to Paramaribo, charge into the interior (escorted, ideally, by a couple of bodyguards) and try to see what Gimlette saw.
“Other places may feel more magnificent than the Guianas,” he writes, “but nowhere feels quite so unconquered.” If would-be travelers take a cue from this observation and decide they’d like to follow Gimlette’s lead, he can hardly blame them. One of his own forebears, a “lawyer, poet, dilettante and layabout” named Robert Hayman, succumbed to the romance of the region in 1629. Hayman traveled by dugout canoe up the Oyapock River with, as Gimlette puts it, “no map, no medicine and no prospect of rescue.” Hayman died there, one of his friends reported, “in the said canoo of a burning fever and of the fluxe.” Such a fate might deter others from attempting a similar undertaking, but for Gimlette it was an enticement. Roughly four centuries on, he has proved that although this place can “exact a terrible price for its beauty,” sometimes a lucky visitor can depart from it both enriched and unscathed.
Liesl Schillinger is a regular contributor to the Book Review.